Fitting Boots
The advent of supple, easily broken-in fabric/leather boots and lightweight all-leather boots has alleviated much of the anxiety that used to accompany boot shopping. In the past, the prospective victim trembled and asked himself: Will I ever be able to break these monsters in? Will I curse myself for years for purchasing an exorbitantly expensive pair of blister machines? Fortunately, for backpackers, those days of fear and loathing are mostly gone. Still, a few words on fitting boots may be in order.

For starters, buy the socks you intend to wear before selecting your boots. The particular sock combination you choose affects the fit of your boots a great deal. As a general rule, I recommend wearing one pair of thin, synthetic liner socks with a thicker pair of wool or wool-blend socks on top. The slick synthetic fibers of the liner sock tend to reduce friction and hold blisters at bay; the thick wool sock provides insulation and cushioning and absorbs moisture. Cotton socks are very comfortable if your feet will stay dry. If they get wet, however, cotton socks will lose their resiliency, collapse against your skin and cling there, making your feet cold and clammy. Cotton is highly absorbent, which means it takes forever to dry. Some people recommend wearing liner socks made of silk because they believe silk socks reduce blisters. Although they don't seem to help Cora, they might help you. I rarely have problems with blisters, so I can't speak to that claim from personal experience.

Once you've purchased the socks you'll be wearing, start trying on boots. In the past, when the lightweight boot revolution first hit, the hiker's decision was simple: which boot is lightest? Now that revolution has reached a plateau, and the hiker faces a different decision: what balance of light weight versus support do I want? The ultra-light boot that feels as comfortable as a running shoe in the store (because that's basically what it is) may leave your feet bruised and battered after 10 heavily laden miles.

Boots are made on a last, a metal form that defines the shape of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, some narrow, some wide, depending on what they think will fit the greatest number of feet. A few manufacturers offer different widths in the same size and model of boot. Don't accept the first pair that feels vaguely right. Try different models and different manufacturers, and even different stores, which may carry styles the first did not. Unlace the boot completely and shove your foot as far forward as possible, until your toes touch the front of the boot. If you can fit one finger in between your heel and the back of the boot, the length is about right. Lace up the boot and walk. Does your heel shift up and down inside the boot? A small amount of movement may be acceptable, particularly in a stiff, new boot. If the movement is excessive, however, it will cause blisters. Look for enough room at the front of the boot to "play piano with your toes," especially if you're buying a cold-weather boot. Snug boots restrict circulation, which can lead to cold feet, even frostbite.

If you're planning to carry a substantial load, try the boots on while wearing a pack. Stand on a sharp edge to test the arch support. Squat down and see if the toe box folds into a sharp wrinkle that jabs your toes. Let your foot roll to the side and see if the boot provides adequate ankle support. You'll be surprised at how quickly a lightweight day-hiker begins to seem inadequate for serious backpacking. Unfortunately, the stiffer the boot, the harder it is to judge if it will be comfortable over the long haul. That's another reason to buy no heavier and stiffer a boot than you really need. You're looking for the balance point between light weight and support – a balance point that will vary depending on the load on your back. Fortunately, most good shops will let you return boots a few days after purchase if you've only worn them indoors.

Next Page: Hiking Boot Care

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